Mera Peak Climbing

Highlights

• Opportunity to triumph at the highest trekking peak of Nepal
• Astounding views of five eight thousand meters high peaks of Everest, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Everest, and Makalu
• Opportunity for a deep understanding of the Buddhist culture practiced by the Tibetan Sherpas
• Discover the wonders of Makalu Barun National Park and have the chance to witness its rare wildlife up close
• Encounter numerous remarkable sites for your photographic archive
• A well-organized acclimatization journey with minimal risk of altitude sickness
• Learn essential mountaineering skills from our experienced guide
• A picturesque brief flight to Lukla
• Explore the heritage of Kathmandu through a guided tour

Bored with your usual lifestyle and want to push the boundaries? Then consider Mera peak climbing which is a great way to try a new adventure, test your capabilities, and get a high dose of adrenaline and amazing emotions. It is a journey that will convince you that the only thing better than mountains can be mountains that you have never been to before.

The amazing Mera peak is the tallest and highest trekking peak sitting still as three brothers in the southeastern side of the Sagarmatha region bordering Tibet. The three brothers include the Mera Central at 6461 m, Mera North at 6476 m, and Mera South at 6065 m. All three peaks are part of the protected reserved area of Makalu Barun National Park.

Due to technical obstacles and challenging terrain, both the Mera North and Mera South peaks are currently inaccessible. Therefore, our main target is the Mera Central Peak first triumphantly conquered by Sen Tenzing and Col. Jimmy Roberts on May 20, 1953.

Please have no doubt Mera Central is equally superior in terms of beauty and challenge as famous and fearsome giants surround the majestic peak of Mera Central, none other than the five 8-peaks (that is, those over 8,000 meters): Everest (8,848 m) the roof of the world, Lhotse (8,516 m), Cho Oyu (8,188 m), Makalu (8,485 m), Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), as well as many other stunningly beautiful peaks of 6,000 and 7,000 m, such as Baruntse (7,162 m) and the Ama Dablam (6,812 m).

Regarding our 18-day Mera Peak climbing program, we will take the southern route from Lukla traversing through the wonderful Hinku Valley. En route, we will come across the 4600 m high Zwatra La Pass. This route offers the stunning Nepalese wilderness with the opportunity to explore ancient Sherpa villages, providing us with a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of the local inhabitants.

In addition, we have thoughtfully planned for adequate days of acclimatization with rest day allocated at Khare before approaching the base camp and High camps and finally pushing the summit. Thus any physically fit person can overcome the Mera Peak climbing route laid out among picturesque forests and thickets of rhododendrons.

So get ready to join our Mera Peak climbing expedition and prepare for your victory over harsh natural conditions that will delight you with the fantastic landscapes that open up, and will remain in happy memories of unforgettable days.

How does our journey begin?

As with any trek in the Everest region, our Mera peak climbing adventure also begins from Lukla. The next day, we trek to Chutanga leading our trail through the beautiful rhododendron trees followed by crossing the massive Zwatra La Pass to reach Thuli Kharka.

We will travel through the narrow path of the amazing Hinku Khola Valley and advance towards Mera Base Camp past the settlements of Thaknak and Khare. After we march toward the High Camp, the real challenge begins as we push to the summit early in the morning.

After a successful triumph over the Mera peak, we descend to Khare and return via the same familiar path through the Khare, Kother, and Thuli Kharka settlements. Then a second thrilling flight from Lukla will bring us to Kathmandu.

Trip Info

Best Time

The autumn season from September to November is the perfect time if you want to join the Mera Peak climbing program. At this time, the weather is mostly clear, in Kathmandu temperature is comfortable between 15-25 degrees Celsius while in the mountains at the maximum altitudes of our trek, it is cold from 0 degrees during the day and -6 degrees at night.  At night on Mera La, it can be minus 15. The views at this time are unbeatable.

The second best time for Mera Peak climbing is spring from March to May. The early March days can still be chilly as winter fades away slowly. There may be remnants of winter snow along the Mera La Pass. But as the days progress, the temperature gradually rises offering a warm and enjoyable environment perfect for long hikes. One best things about spring is the vibrant bloom of flowers, including the national rhododendron, which adds a lively touch to the trail.

We do not recommend summer/monsoon from June to August and winter from December to February for beginners. The slippery roads and landslides in summer and a massive pile of snow along the Pass and Base camps and high camps can make your first-time climbing journey to Mera Peak relatively difficult.

Elevation and distance

The outstanding Mera Peak towers at an altitude of 6461 m above sea level. It is situated approximately 75 km away from the cosmopolitan city of Kathmandu. Our trekking journey begins from Lukla town elevated at 2730 m and 135 km away from the capital city. A 30 to 35-minute internal flight is needed to cover this distance.

The highest elevation gain during our entire expedition is at High Camp situated at almost 5800 m altitude. It is also the topmost elevation where we will be spending the night.

Our thoughtfully designed 18-day program will let us walk only 7 to 8 km each day on average which is a perfectly attainable distance for a healthy individual.

Maximum/Minimum walk per day

Our 18-day Mera Peak climbing journey features only 12 days of hiking schedule during which we will cover 7 to 8 km each day. During these trekking days, we will dedicate around 5 to 7 hours to walking.

However, the duration and distance of our hikes will vary depending on the planned program for each day. One day it’s an easy job while some days can be very challenging. The easiest walk will be on day 8 when we advance from Thaknak to Khare within 2 to 3 hours.

On the other hand, the toughest challenge will be the day when we push for the summit which will be day 12. On this day, we will march from the High Camp to the summit and then climb down to reach Khare the same day. We will traverse 17 km this day needing us to walk for 9 hours. Undoubtedly, it is the longest and toughest walk of our entire journey.

Difficulty and Acclimatization

Mera Peak climbing is categorized as PD (Peu Difficile) which defines it as a slightly challenging yet non-technical expedition.  Therefore, climbing skills are not a prerequisite for reaching the summit of Mera Peak. In addition, the climbing expedition doesn’t involve any complex formalities.

A manageable moderate trek will take us to the summit making it an excellent option for those seeking to conquer their first mountain above 6,000 meters.

The trekking itinerary is designed to allow for gradual acclimatization, with a rest day scheduled at Khare. However, some days will require you to trek for 5 to 7 hours across rugged and slippery glacial terrain. As you journey, you will tackle the challenging passes of Zwatra La and Mera La, which are not to be taken lightly. During the final summit push, be ready for a 7-hour climb along the glacial trail.

Therefore, this climb requires very good physical condition, mental concentration, perseverance, and patience. The cold can be intense, the fatigue deeper and more pressing, the pace short and laborious because of the altitude.

Can a beginner join this trek?

Climbing Mera Peak is an excellent way to begin your mountain expedition in Nepal. This trekking/climbing adventure will provide you with a great opportunity to build your high-altitude trekking and mountaineering skills before attempting Ama Dablam, Himlung, or even Everest.

With adequate physical fitness, agility, and basic climbing abilities, you can successfully climb the summit. Additionally, our certified climbing guide will offer training and guidance on essential equipment in Khare, base camp, and advance camp. If necessary, he may also fix ropes for your easy ascension towards the summit.

If the usage of a preinstalled railing is necessary, he will inspect it first before letting you use it. He will also closely monitor your safety and progress throughout the journey.

However, you must be in reasonable physical shape to participate in the tour. And a prerequisite is the absence of medical contraindications for prolonged stay at high altitudes.

Preparation and training

To successfully conquer Mera Peak, it is essential to maintain a high level of physical fitness and undergo proper training, preferably in mountainous terrain. Additionally, engaging in endurance and muscle strength training for a minimum of four weeks before your expedition is crucial.

As you trek to Mera Peak, be prepared to hike for several hours with a backpack. We highly recommend dedicating at least thirty minutes each day to practice hiking with a light backpack.

Likewise, if you join a gym, then consider using a treadmill to enhance cardiovascular endurance and engage in workouts targeting key muscle groups like legs, back, and abdomen. Additionally, activities like swimming, cycling, jump rope, and stair climbing can also improve your overall physical fitness.

Alternate routes

There are two main approaches to the Mera peak: the first and the most optimal and convenient option is the one we have designed for you. The second is the long route that leaves from Lukla to Paiya,  Pangkongma, Ramailo Danda, Chhatra Khola, and meet Kothe, and from here on continue the same way.

This route allows you to enjoy more of the beauty of the Hinku Valley, but acclimatization begins later and you need to walk more.

Experienced trekkers and climbers can consider adding the Amphu Lapcha Pass or Mingbo La Pass trek to your Mera Peak climbing adventure. This route will lead you through the stunning Sagarmatha National Park, but keep in mind that an extra permit is required. This path is less developed for tourism and lacks shelters, so you have to be prepared to camp through most of the journey.

Altitude Sickness

Indeed, Mera Peak climbing does not require technical mountaineering skills, but it does require a certain level of climbing skill such as walking on crampons and usage of ice axes. However, these skills can be acquired during the training session on the trip.

So Mera Peak climbing is relatively easy however, it is important to note that Mera Peak’s altitude exceeds 6000 m- an altitude that should not be taken lightly. Such high altitude can affect you physically resulting in decreased appetite, breathing difficulties, and disturbed sleep patterns, which can lead to altitude sickness.

Therefore, we have taken every precaution to minimize the risk of altitude sickness. We have carefully planned the itinerary with minimal walking hours and have included a rest day at Khare as you approach the summit.

For the accomplishment of our goal, we advise you to increase your water intake, maintain a steady pace, eat sufficient meals, prioritize rest whenever possible, and keep your body warm throughout the climb.

If you experience symptoms such as headaches, restlessness, or nausea, you can take Diamox and inform our guide about your condition. Please remember that we have allocated an extra contingency day for summiting in case of such circumstances, so there is no need to rush towards the summit.

Transportation, Meals and Drink

Our extensive Mera Peak Climbing package has integrated a wide range of services to make your journey comfortable and convenient. This includes standard hotel accommodation, transportation, meals, drinks, and permits.

Our services begin with a private transfer from the airport to your hotel and end with a drop-off service to TIA by private transport. In between, all ground transportation needed during the trip and trek will also be in private transfer. During the Kathmandu and Bhaktapur trip, our tour guide will accompany you along with a private vehicle and driver.

Additionally, we have included the flight costs for your journey from Kathmandu to Lukla and Lukla to Kathmandu. In the event of a flight diversion to Ramechhap Airport, we will arrange private transport to take you there.

We offer you standard hotel accommodation on a sharing basis in Kathmandu with breakfast every morning. Because of the availability of numerous options, lunch and dinner will be on your own. During the trek and climbing period, we will serve you three meals (Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner) at the mountain lodge.

Upto Lukla, you can order from local Sherpa dishes to Western cuisine such as burgers, pasta, pizza, etc. However, with the progress in altitude, the options may be limited to Dal Vat Tarkari, momos, Thukpa, and bread.

At the base and High Camp, we provide tents to be shared between two group members during the camping period. Our crew members will also cook fresh and hygienic meals for you three times daily.

Communication, Gadgets charging, and Internet/wifi

You can easily communicate with your loved ones through the local mobile networks of NCELL or NTC. Their SIM card is readily available anywhere in Kathmandu and Lukla. Up to Lukla, you can also have access to free WIFI with a good connection and undoubtedly you can also charge your gadgets easily till Lukla.

However, once you walk past Lukla, the availability of services may become limited or even non-existent as you hike through the rugged terrain and high altitudes. Mobile networks may have restricted coverage, and WIFI connections can be intermittent.

When you are at the base and High Camps, it is essential to depend on batteries. Therefore, we recommend carrying a power bank and extra batteries. In case of any emergency, satellite phones will be provided for urgent communication.

Permits

Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit and Mera Peak climbing permit are essential for the Mera Peak climbing expedition. We will secure these permits for you as part of our service.

Mera Peak Vs. Island Peak

Both Mera Peak and Island Peak are two majestic peaks located in the Sagarmatha region of Nepal. Mera Peak at 6461 m and Island Peak at 6165 m have been the beginners’ choice for accumulating the necessary skills required to conquer the 7000 m peaks of Ama Dablam or Himlung and further attempt Everest.

To climb these peaks, you must possess the fundamental mountaineering skills, which can be acquired during the ascent. A good physical condition and mental perseverance are also needed for this expedition.

If you look at the height, you may think climbing Island Peak is an easier task than climbing Mera Peak. However, climbing Islan Peak is more demanding because of the arduous route. The path to the summit is characterized by steep, narrow, and icy sections making prior experience in hiking and mountaineering essential for a successful ascent.

FAQ

Is Everest visible from Mera Peak?

Yes, along with Everest, you will also see four other eight-thousand-meter-high peaks of Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu, and Kanchenjunga.

Why is Mera Central the only one being attempted, while Mera North and South are not?

Because of the technical difficulty, and more challenging route. Both Mera North and Mera South have been graded ED which means the climbing is more challenging, riskier, and more technical.

Has anyone conquered the Mera North peak?

Yes, according to some sources, L. Limarques, Ang Lhakpa, and two other Sherpas were the first ones to climb the Mera North peak on October 29 1973 while others indicate rench climbers Marcel Jolly, G. Baus and L. Honills were the first conquerers of the peak who climbed the summit in 1975.

Why is Mera Peak recognized as a trekking peak in Nepal?

Because the expedition to Mera Peak involves 90 percent of the trekking part. But please do not underestimate the peak being a trekking one as you will have to tackle 10 percent of the route with basic mountaineering skills. Such as walking with crampons, utilizing an ice ax, and a jumar, or walking up and down along the fixed rope.

What if I couldn’t climb the Peak?

we understand not every individual can push to the summit on the same day as planned. For this reason, we have one contingency day when those who were unable to conquer the summit the day before can go for a summit assault. However, if your health doesn’t allow it, please do not rush against the advice of our guide. See mountains won’t go anywhere, you can try next year. Besides you have already trekked up to High Camp which is an adventure in itself.

Brief Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,350m/4,428ft)
Day 02: Sightseeing of Kathmandu and Bhaktapur city
Day 03: Fly to Lukla and explore around Lukla (2730m/8954ft)
Day 04: Trek to Chutanga (3,430 m/11,250 ft): 3-4 hours
Day 05: Trek to Thuli Kharka (4320m/13200ft) via Zwatra la (4600 m/14720 ft): 5-6 hours
Day 06: Trek to Kothe (3600 m, /11808ft): 5-6 hours
Day 07: Kothe to Thaknak (4,350m/14,270ft): 3-4 hours
Day 08: Thaknak to Khare (5,045m/16,486ft): 2-3 hours
Day 09: Acclimatization at Khare
Day 10: Khare to Mera Base Camp (5300m/17,384ft): 3-4 hours
Day 11: Mera Base Camp to High Camp (5,780m/18,958ft): 4-5 hours
Day 12: Mera High Camp to Summit (6,461m/21,1907ft) and back to Khare (5045m/16,547ft): 8-9 hours
Day 13: Reserve Day for Contingency
Day 14: Khare to Kothe (3600m/11808ft): 4-5 hours
Day 15: Kothe to Thuli Kharka: 5-6 hours
Day 16: Thuli Kharka to Lukla: 6-7 hours
Day 17: Fly to Kathmandu
Day 18:Transfer to the airport for the final departure